You can jump to schematic just below, or the board diagram. There’s also the final bill of material. There’s a bit on what I did for the artwork, but that did not work out the way I had it in my mind😊.
As usual, if you can’t be bothered to read, just skip to the video. You can always come back for more detail. The video is a bit long, a sort of a build diary, something like that.
I know I said in the previous post that it was the final schematic, but this is final final 😄.
This is the complete schematic now with all the necessary jacks and switches, LED etc. I also renumbered some of the switches just to make sure of two things: 1) when all switches are switched to the right, that’s our base Tube Screamer like mode, and 2) that I have them close to each other so I can fit them on the board.
I did my board layout again in DIY Layout Creator:
If you watch the video, I made some initial mistakes with the diagram, so I had to cut-off parts of the board to be able to fit it … that’s what those white cutouts at the top of the board mean.
The board is a bit complicated because it’s, well, complex. On top of it, I wanted to fit dip-switches and LED on one side of it and the rest of the components on the other side of it. The view is from the side that does not have strips, so the view is matching how the components are going to be placed on the board.
Having said that, all the strip cut-outs are from the bottom of the board so care has to be take when making the cuts. If you watch the video, I made several mistakes, but this being a DIY job, I could fix them. Dip switches go on the side where the strips are, so they can be exposed on the top of the enclosure.
Also note 4 holes – smaller ones. Since my original plan to hold the board with pots did not work out, I had to put some screws in to hold the board in place. Not the prettiest one, but I hope to improve on that in future 😉.
Bill of Material
Below is the final BOM used for this pedal with dip switches and all.
|Protoboard||I used 24×20 stripboard/veroboard that can fit into my 1590B enclosure|
|Jumpers and wires||As many as you need. I got some online, but 24 AWG solid core wire will do just fine.|
|J1, J2||Switchcraft 111X||In & Out jacks – both mono since I did not use battery|
|J3||Lumberg 1614 09||DC Jack – careful how you solder this since it has to go in last. Alternative is Cliff FC681473|
|S1||SF17020F-0302-21R-L||Taiwan Alpha 3PDT Latching Foot Switch|
|SW2, SW3||ADE0404||4 Way Dip Switch|
|RV1, RV2||Alpha 16mm 100K linear pot||Any 100K linear pot will do, I used 16mm with soldering tabs|
|RV3||Alpha 9mm 100K linear pot||I had to use smaller pot here, but any 100K linear pot will do|
|C1||10n (0.01uF)||Metal film PET cap|
|C2, C13||220pF||Ceramic C0G cap|
|C3, C7||220n (0.22uF)||Metal film PET cap|
|C5||470n (0.47uF)||Metal film PET cap|
|C6||4.7uF||Electrolytic cap 25V|
|C8||47uF||Electrolytic cap 25V|
|C10||100uF||Electrolytic cap 25V|
|C9||100n (0.1uF)||Ceramic X7R|
|C11||330nF||Metal film PET cap|
|C12||2.2nF||Metal film PET cap|
|D3-D6||1N4148||Small signal diodes for clipping|
|R1, R3, R16||2.2M||1% 250mW metal film|
|R4, R10, R11||10K|
|R6, R12||470 ohm|
|R14, R15, R17, R18||100K|
|R19||4.7K||Current limiting resistor for LED (value depends on your LED)|
|D7||LED||3mm low current orange LED. Any will do, but use appropriate R19 value for it|
That is it. I don’t know if I used that Lumberg power jack before – but that has to be soldered in last, because the way it’s fit to the enclosure. It has a screw from the back so it has to be fit in an then soldered to the board. Pain, but takes up way less space than the Cliff one.
Here’s what I planned my pedal to look like:
This is fixed version, you have to see the video for details 🙂 How did it end up in the end is not exactly this … I tried to cut out template for using spray paint. The design was too small for that I think.
I did it before, but I forgot that very small cut-outs won’t work. Here’s the final result:
Have a look how did I build it and how did it end up: