After the introduction let’s see what’s the sound of the clone is. I’ll breadboard it and try it out to make sure everything works as expected.
Here’s the Fuzz Face diagram once more:
It is slightly different from the bare bones schematic. I added input/output jacks, battery and DPDT switch. BTW, the original version did not have LED indicator and was powered by the battery only, so this is probably very close to the original.
One note about how the battery is wired up. Negative pole is connected to the ring connector of the stereo input jack. This way, when the guitar cable is unplugged, the battery is disconnected, when the cable is plugged in, the battery negative pole connects to ground.
What happens is that because the guitar plug is mono, sleeve and ring connectors get shorted by the plug. So when the guitar cable is unplugged from the effect, the battery is not used. It is worth noting that the effect is powered up even if not engaged all the time, as long as the plug is in.
One of the pots is with solder lugs, so I have breadboard jumper wires soldered to it. That way I can plug it easily into the breadboard. The pot other is with PCB pins, so I have it plugged into the board directly.
Actually, the only 1K pot I had was too awkward to plug into the breadboard so I had to solder it onto a strip board and then use header pins. But for all intents and purposes it’s the same as if it was a simple pot with PCB pins.
Here are the DIY files if you wish to play with them:
Bill of Material
Let me prepare components that I’ll be using:
|Breadboard||Full size breadboard|
|BT1||Battery and battery connector||I’ll be using battery for testing the effect|
|Jumpers and Jumper wire|
|J1 (IN)||Switchcraft 12||In – stereo Jack|
|J2 (OUT)||Switchcraft 11||Out mono Jack|
|S1||DPDT Switch||Alps SPPH410100 latching switch|
To bypass effect (optional)
|RV1||1K linear pot||Bourns PTV09A-4225F-B102. Any 1K linear pot will do.|
|RV2||500K audio/log pot||P160KNP-0QC20A500K TT Electronics. Any 500K log pot will do.|
|C1||2.2uF||Electrolytic cap 25V|
|C2||22uF||Electrolytic cap 25V|
|C3||10nF (0.01uF)||Metal film PET cap|
|R1||330 ohms||1% 250mW metal film|
|Q1, Q2||BC109C||See experimentation section below for alternatives|
Once I have the layout worked out, breadboarding is really easy. I just literally follow the layout, I plug the components in and put in the jumper wires exactly as on the diagram (and I even try to match the colours).
I nearly forgot. BC109C comes in TO-18 metal can package that has a little metal tab indicating emitter. The DIY Layout app doesn’t have that package coming out of the box, so I used something that resembles it. Anyway, the pinout is the same:
Here’s how it looks like breadboarded:
Trying it out
OK, breadboarding, making sure everything works. I’ll leave trying out various different combinations for the next post.